Beko WUX61032W-IT Washing Machine Not Heating Up the Water

Hi Anto,

Thanks for your question regarding your Beko WUX61032W-IT washing machine.

It sounds to me like you have had a technician trying to pull a fast one! It is unfortunately quite common for some repairers to immediately blame an expensive circuit board and push you into buying a brand new machine without doing a proper physical inspection. Good on you for planning to check the components yourself, as this is very often a cheap and simple fix.

To get to the bottom of this, you will need a basic multimeter. (If you don't have one, you can get a new multimeter via our Amazon Affiliate Link.)

First, test your heating element. Make sure the machine is completely disconnected from the electricity, take the back panel off, and remove the wires going to the element at the bottom of the drum. Set your meter to resistance (ohms) and place your probes on the two main terminals. A good working element should give you a reading of around 26 to 30 ohms. If you get no reading at all, the element has burnt out and simply needs replacing.

Here is the link for the replacement part: Beko WUX61032W-IT Washing Machine Heating Element C00866585

If the element tests fine, you need to check the NTC temperature sensor, which is the small plug located right next to or inside the element base. Set your meter to a higher ohms range and test the sensor terminals. It should give you a reading in the thousands, and if you cup the sensor in your warm hand, that number should steadily drop. If the meter shows no reading (open circuit), the sensor is completely dead. This is a very common fault, and because the machine's computer cannot read the water temperature, it refuses to turn the heater on.

If both the element and the sensor test perfectly, and the wiring harness up to the top is intact, then the technician might actually be right about the main board. However, you absolutely do not need to spend 250 euros on a brand new one! When a circuit board fails to send power to the heater, it is almost always just a burnt-out heater relay switch or a cracked solder joint on the back of the board. If you or someone you know can solder, a new relay costs just a few pounds. Alternatively, you can look on eBay or Facebook Marketplace for a secondhand board from a donor machine—just make sure the identification numbers match your exact model.

The video below shows exactly how to test both the element and the NTC sensor, and how to safely remove them from the tub using the 10mm nut trick. I strongly recommend watching the video fully before you start, as it will show you exactly what readings to look for on your meter and how to reinstall the seal without causing leaks.

You can also find the full exploded diagrams and technical documents for your exact machine linked below.

Hope this helps you save your machine from the scrap heap! Feel free to reach out if you need any more help.

All the best,

Paul