Beko DHY7340W Heat Pump Tumble Dryer Not Drying

Hi Jordan, it's Berkay. I'm the editor of this channel. Since Paul is travelling right now, I'm answering your question for him.

Thanks for getting in touch, and a massive well done on the work you have done so far regarding your Beko DHY7340W Heat Pump Tumble Dryer. Stripping down a heat pump tumble dryer to fully clean out the evaporator and condenser is a huge job, and polishing up that humidity sensor was a brilliant diagnostic step.

Based on the wattage readings you provided, we can actually deduce exactly what is happening inside your machine. When you start the cycle and it draws around 200W, that is the main drive motor running to turn the drum and the fan. When it jumps up to around 400W a few minutes later, that tells us the main circuit board is successfully sending power to the compressor, and the compressor is physically firing up and running.

However, your symptom of the drum getting warm but incredibly humid with absolutely zero water going into the container is the biggest clue. For a heat pump dryer to extract water, the warm, damp air from the clothes has to be blown across a freezing cold evaporator coil. Because you have already completely cleared out the fluff blockages, the most likely culprit is that the sealed refrigeration system has unfortunately lost its refrigerant gas. When the gas leaks out over time, the compressor will still turn on and draw that extra 200W of power, but the evaporator will never get cold. Instead of condensing into water, the moisture just stays trapped as a warm, humid fog circulating inside the drum.

Before we completely write off the machine as a gassing failure, there is one mechanical thing you should double-check. The main drive motor at the bottom of the machine turns both the drum belt and the large plastic fan blade located at the rear of the machine. Occasionally, the plastic mounting hole on that rear fan blade can crack or shear off. If this happens, the motor spins the drum perfectly, but the fan blade just slips on the metal shaft and fails to push the air through the ducting. This would also leave all that damp air trapped inside the drum.

I strongly suggest doing the temperature probe test I show in the first video. If you place a simple thermometer down into the front evaporator and another at the back ducting, you should see a massive temperature difference of around 15 to 20 degrees after about 15 minutes. (If you don't have it, you can get a new one via our Thermometer Amazon Affiliate Link.)

If both temperatures stay roughly the same and just slowly warm up together, and your rear fan blade is definitely intact and spinning securely, it unfortunately confirms the machine has lost its gas. Because re-gassing these sealed systems requires a specialist refrigeration engineer, it is sadly often more expensive than replacing the machine entirely.

I've also included useful documents including "Gas Leakage Problem" and videos below.

I hope these help you narrow down the final culprit, even if it might not be the best news for the dryer. You have done absolutely everything right on the maintenance side! Feel free to reach out if you need any more advice.

All the best,
Paul